Category: style | 時尚 | 유행 | ファッション

Why did I chose style over fashion as a term here? Before the internet fashion meant a series of serial clothing trends. Before the second world war, this went across both young people and adults depending on their income.

After the war, you started to see the rise of teenagers as a distinct consumer group with their own fashions and disposable income. Over time youth as a concept began to become attenuated and society started to discriminate against older people.

As I write this some of the luminaries of streetwear are in their late 50s and 60s. Shawn Stüssy will be 68 this year and was designing streetwear for Dior for their fall and winter 2020 collection. I know the Dads of college age kids who still skateboard and working in the creative side of advertising I still wear streetwear myself.

Japan’s style bible Hail Mary features models and style icons who are at least that age or even older.

At the same time, culture and fashion have become massively parallel. On the one hand you have brands selling timeless workwear, on the other you have companies like Shein and Boo.com who have been turning out new fashion ranges in a matter of weeks by carefully scrutinising Google search data and social media content.

All of this has created massive waste, despite the supposedly environmentally concerned high anxiety younger generations who feel that they are facing an existential crisis.

Fashion doesn’t neatly cover all of these tensions that are driving the apparel industry at the moment. And I haven’t even talked about body positive extending sizing that suppliers are now starting to address.

  • Holly Herndon + more things

    Holly Herndon

    Holly Herndon and Jace Clayton in conversation. Holly and Jace are interesting characters. They are academics, at least one published book author and artists. They have explored areas such as sampling themselves and the use of machine learning in composition and sound creation.

    Holly Herndon on process is fascinating. I think this has wider implications for creative industries. It does raise question about the nature of creation itself in terms of intellectual property.

    James Lavelle

    James Lavelle on the history of Mo’Wax. These films by FACT magazine are nice. Although they miss a few things.

    Lavelle’s impact goes beyond music:

    • James Lavelle has been a taste maker, he helped popularise a lot of Japanese clothing including A Bathing Ape (BAPE) in the UK and Europe
    • Lavelle’s Unkle was more than a music brand. There was a strong focus on merchandise and clothing including the Surrender streetwear brand. The merchandise was a great product as you can see in Lavelle’s archive. You only see Surrender items come up on eBay every so often because they are so valued and highly prized by owners. The big issue seems to have been one of distribution and hype. There is no interest on the likes of StockX for these items despite the heat behind designers Futura and manufacturers Mediacom and BAPE – again distribution would have been so important for awareness

    Lavelle has managed to self destruct and reinvent himself, which is only obliquely touched upon in this footage.

    More on the history of Mo’Wax. There is more serendipity in this than this video lets on. Also Japan’s Major Force Records needs more kudos than seems to happen in this video. If you liked this it is well worthwhile checking out the

    Sleep app pivot

    How J&J Research Led From Bath-Time to a Mobile Sleep App | Digital – AdAge – fascinating story how consumer insights can dramatically shake up product development and or service design

  • Threat score + more things

    The new way police are surveilling you: Calculating your threat score – The Washington Post – similar to China’s social credit score, the threat score sounds like a concept perilously close to ‘pre-crime’ in Minority Report. Also how will the threat score handle accusations of systemic racism or infringement of civil or constitutional rights?

    Moleskine 开出了第一家咖啡店,在日内瓦机场 | 理想生活实验室 – interesting brand collaboration in Germany with restaurateur Caviar House & Prunier

    El Chapo, journalists and readers – Scripting News – pre-approval of copy happens at the celeb level whether it is Madonna or an ‘in the public eye’ CEO, or ’embeds’

    Apple News App Is Off to a Rocky Start – WSJ – problems with traffic measurement

    Schibsted wants to circumvent the mobile adblocking apocalypse by making better, more effective ads » Nieman Journalism Lab – interesting online advertising research

    SoundCloud reportedly raises €32 million in debt funding – Tech.eu – interesting that its debt funding, did they originally go for VC funding and increased valuation?

    Yahoo’s Brain Drain Shows a Loss of Faith Inside the Company – The New York Times – 30 per cent attrition rate. When I worked there the attrition rate was high, this is combination of changing business needs and media / tech industry rotating doors in many roles

    2016 emerging food trends | Global Food Forums ™ – interesting set of insights

    Inside the tiny house revolution | Yahoo! – Katie Couric on downsizing

    Creating a marketing organisation for the Digital Age – HBR & Marketo – marketing automation getting Harvard Business Review onside with a substantial sponsorship deal no doubt

    UK defense industry slams snooper’s charter – It also states that the bill’s provisions “unduly interfere with the rights to privacy, freedom of opinion and expression.” The coalition also argues that Britain’s implementation of the bill will have far-reaching implications for the rest of the world as other countries seek to emulate the UK’s policies. – Reminds me of the overreach on the Digital Economy Bill, if that is anything to go by HMG will ignore feedback

    VR porn lends a hand. Masturbation will never be the same – CNET – so if you want to know if VR is likely to take off when the media world gets the content right, adult entertainment company Naughty America might be a good bellwether

    Behind the Numbers: Saudi Aramco Valuation – The Numbers – WSJ – the interesting thing is why do the Saudi’s want to sell now and what about the tension between domestic energy demand and the more profitable export sales? Once the red herring comes out details on the reserves and production facilities should be clearer

    Why Diesel is about to start advertising on Pornhub | Dazed – “I was always frustrated by those things that we all think but we’re not allowed to say,” admits artistic director Nicola Formichetti of what inspired this “transparency” – something which is continued in both in the brand’s SS16 campaign (exclusively released above) and a new strategy that involves ads on Tinder, Grindr, Pornhub and YouPorn. “What we see in advertisements is just selling fake dreams, fake things, this impossible beauty. I think we have to be honest. Yeah, this is an ad, we’re selling shoes. But it’s in an interesting way, and people smile.”

    Artificial intelligence: Can Watson save IBM? – FT.com – Part of the problem lies in digesting real-world information: reading and understanding reams of doctors’ notes that are hard for a computer to ingest and organise. But there is also a deeper epistemological problem. “On Jeopardy! there’s a right answer to the question,” says Ms Chin but, in the medical world, there are often just well-informed opinions – interesting delve into the limits of expert systems (paywall) – via Azeem’s great newsletter Exponential View

    Hoverboard inventor says he has made no money – mostly because of cheap Chinese knock-offs | South China Morning Post – Still, it grates with Chen that big supermarkets and department stores facilitate the counterfeiters by dealing in knockoffs. “It is very discouraging. The patent system is not working if something is popular. With something like Hovertrax, the patent is almost useless.” – Maybe IP authorities should look at Wal-Mart and co rather than the factories?

    UK Foreign Affairs committe considers probe on Sino-British ties: concerns about erosion of Hong Kong’s Basic Law | South China Morning Post – this could be just the thing required to knock the economic relationship on his head and give Cameron’s enemies the upper hand destabilising him further on his European stance

    The Internet of Things That Talk About You Behind Your Back | Motherboard – great article by Bruce Schneier

    Why The Fashion World Hates Wearables | Fast Co-Design – not practical, not subtle and butt ugly

  • Zoetrope + other things

    Zoetrope based on a number sequence

    Amazing zoetrope based on Fibonacci sequence made using 3d-printing – just mesmerising. The strobing effect reminded me of the strobe edge on the Technics SL-1200 turntable. The zoetrope were moving images before film or television existed. This embedded the zoetrope in a wider steam punk aesthetic that harked back to the Victorian and Edwardian age. John Baird used some of the visual effects that a zoetrope has in the electro-mechanical mechanism of his original television system.

    Road readers programme

    Honda Turns Car Time Into Story Time With ‘Road Readers’ Program – Print (video) – Creativity Online – smart work by Honda. It deals with the ‘are we there yet’ yet problem that emanates from the back seat during medium to long journeys. It is a world away from the focus on driving experience that car marketing usually does.

    Zegna

    Zegna celebrates family togetherness with multi-generation gift guide – Luxury Daily – really nice idea that ensures your family gets presents that you’d actually like. It deals with the awkwardness of intergenerational gift giving exemplified by Bart Simpson socks and Old Spice gift guides. For Zegna’s perspective it also allows the brand to build a relationship with the children and grandchildren of current customers. Its an interesting approach to building those mental models for the brand. More luxury-related content here.

    Bizarre Tinder ads

    Amazon Looks To Recruit Engineers With Bizarre Tinder Ad | Motherboard – this looks at first glance an attempt to target brogrammers. I wonder what was the insight that drove this whole campaign? The whole thing feels so odd and out of context. Alongside the nazi branded tube train to promote Man In The High Castle this feels one of Amazon’s odder marketing decisions.

    Vogue China

    It is interesting hearing about the role that Vogue China played in ‘building’ the fashion industry in China including getting Chinese models on the world stage. Why had they been ignored previously?

  • MANifeste + other things

    Hermès MANifeste is a short motion graphics based video aimed at their menswear collection

    Hermès MANifeste has got an Eames or Rand feel to it. It is full of clean mid-century modern imagery with icons that would have been in the library of every letterpress and hot metal print works prior to digitisation. This gives the animation a clean masculine feel, that doesn’t feel too old world or conservative. Which is different to the way many male consumers might see Hermès.

    The Project Apollo archive on Flickr gives us access to all the NASA photography from the project. What people don’t appreciate is how comprehensively Project Apollo and the moon landings were documented

    The Spirit of Buffalo video by Dazed Digital featuring Jamie Morgan and Neneh Cherry is a documentary about the Buffalo Collective who influenced the way modern streetwear is styled. The centre of the Buffalo Collective was Ray Petri, who pretty much invented the stylist as a modern concept in the fashion industry. Petri partnered with photogaphers Jamie Morgan, Mark Lebon and Cameron McVey. Models included Barry and Nick Kamen, Naomi Campbell and 13 year old Felix Howard in the iconic Killer picture taken by Jamie Morgan. You can blame Buffalo for the whole Pharrell Williams look which borrows from late 1980s London.

    More content on the buffalo collective here.

    (1) 香港警察 Hong Kong Police | Facebook – acts as lightning rod for the divisions in society made apparent during the Occupy protests, but its also very surreal. Full disclosure: I ran training on social media for the Hong Kong civil service including what they call the disciplined services (this included the police, government flying service, emergency ambulance service, prison service, customs and immigration). The people that I came across were smarter than whoever is managing this page.

    A great remix by The Avalanches which has been on heavy rotation during my dipping into Soundcloud

  • New Balance China & things that made my week

    New Balance China made a video out of what looks like a product photoshoot of different MT580 colour ways

    New Balance China like New Balance Japan seems to move to its down design language.

    I had fallen out of touch with podcasts since the demise of Lawrence Staden and Stephen Bell’s ‘Loz n Belly’ weekly commentary on economic issues a few years ago, but got hooked again when I was introduced to Studio 360’s American Icons programmes. If anyone has any recommendations for good financial and economic podcasts let me know in the comment box below and will give them a whirl.

    I thought it was just my perception that OS X had slowed down somewhat over the past couple of iterations, but this video gave me some food for thought.

    I am just a sucker for fractals. I spent far too much time in college in front of a Mac 7500 and a colour monitor going deeper and deeper into a Mandelbrot set, so this video really resonated. Play it on full screen, sit back and enjoy

    I have a boundless fascination of mechanical watches and this teardown of a Rolex Submariner brings home the miracle and beauty of their mechanical engineering. Rolex do slow and steady innovation in their movements. They also use a high degree of automation in the manufacture of their parts – all of which is done on-site. Rolex keeps is assembly process largely secret, but likely involves a high degree of precision assembly automation that would be more impressive than even Hon Hai Electronics efforts in China. You can take your Apple Watch and shove it. You can see more luxury related content here.