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  • Forbidden movies

    The phenomenon of forbidden movies

    The idea of forbidden movies for me started as a child. There were certain things that I wasn’t allowed to watch. It was a big deal when I was allowed to stay up late on a Saturday night and watch Starsky & Hutch.

    Starsky and Hutch

    But movies that appeared later, were never open to me. So that created an aura of mystery and intrigue around these forbidden movies.

    A cinema trip was something that I did maybe a dozen times prior to me turning 16, so television was my sole access to film full stop. Video shops came along a bit later.

    Television used to feature movie trailers as part of commercial advertising. Judicious editing of footage into the trailer made ropey films like Hangar 18 seem much more attractive than they actually were. As an adult I can say that Darren McGavin and Robert Vaughn were wasted in the film. But it was a tough time for Hollywood and they needed to take what work they could get.

    Being in school

    In primary school and the beginning of secondary school there was a lot of bravado about who had seen what films. Death Race 2000 was a popular film to name drop because of its transgressive nature.

    In reality the film was a Roger Corman produced black comedy that sparked their imagination. But the reality was a mix of imagination and third hand accounts from older family relatives made up the schoolyard mythology of Death Race 2000 and other forbidden movies.

    Video tape

    I had friends who went to art school and got tapes through them. For instance this interview by Geraldo Rivera with death row inmate Charles Manson together with a copy of Cannibal Ferox – an Italian exploitation film banned in the UK under the Obscene Publications act. Neither was ever screened on British TV.

    The first time that I watched A Clockwork Orange was on a tape too. Stanley Kubrick asked for distributors Warner Brothers to remove A Clockwork Orange from UK circulation once it had run its corse at the cinema. The reason was media hysteria had built up around the film and alleged copycat crimes perpetrated. After Kubrick died, Warner Brothers put the film back into circulation and I got to see it in the cinema and own my own copy.

    Although I had seen these films, I had watched them on noisy recordings, so it was like being at a drive through in the middle of a blizzard. But these under the counter copies only magnified the myth around these and other forbidden movies. The 051 art cinema in Liverpool and Moviedrome series on BBC did a lot to widen my film consumption and media literacy.

    Exploitation cinema

    Forbidden movies generally fell into one form of exploitation film genres. These were films that rode a current trend, were niche genres or had transgressive content of one sort or another. Out of exploitation films came the modern porn industry, spaghetti westerns, horror films, sci-fi and fantasy genre, blaxploitation films, LGBTQ cinema and the popularity of martial arts films in the west. They were typically shown in what were known as grind house cinemas in the US. These were cinemas that charged low prices and continually screened films one after the other.

    Some film production companies such as Roger Corman’s New World Cinema and Cannon Pictures specialised in exploitation films. By the time home video and the video rental business came along there was a good body of content to draw from globally. For some reason Italy was a major source of content due to extensive experience dubbing into multiple languages. Italian films were also very transgressive to draw audiences in.

    Content that was created to fuel cinema viewers landed on the small screen thanks to consumer video recorders. There was a single video standard (after Video 2000 and Betamax were outlicenced by VHS). At first VHS viewing was treated as something personal to the household. But eventually the law intervened.

    On the childhood street were I lived until secondary school, there was a family who ran video rental shops and made hardcore pornography in a studio above one of the stores. Their films apparently starred several of our neighbours. They were prosecuted under the Obscene Publications Act and the father did prison time for it.

    The media and government started to take a second look at exploitation genre films that had managed to get a release to video. A pressure group got the government to create a list of 72 films thought to be in contravention of the Obscene Publications Act and then brought in the The Video Recordings Act 1984 which required all films to get a classification as if it was going to be released for cinema display. Included on the list of 72 forbidden movies were works by Wes Craven, Sam Raimi and Dario Argento – all of whom have made a major impact on the history of the cinema and the art of film-making.

    Exploitation films live on through its influence on mainstream film makers such as Eli Roth, Quentin Tarantino and Roger Rodriguez. The modern equivalents of the exploitation production houses would be the likes of The Asylum who produce a lot of direct to Amazon Prime level films.

    Mondo films to shockumentaries

    Mondo films were pioneered in the 1960s by a duo of Italian directors: Gualtiero Jacopetti and Franco Prosperi. Jet travel had opened up the world, but long haul travel was only available to a privileged elite. Far flung parts of the world were largely a mystery to each other. Secondly, the world in a process of decolonisation. Jacopetti and Prosperi’s films showed that a documentary could be profitable at the cinema and could entertain. They weren’t without controversy.

    They also inspired other directors to put together clips of salacious content as documentaries. The most famous of which was Faces of Death and its subsequent four sequels. The most controversial footage in Faces of Death was faked.

    Found Footage

    Found footage has been used as a cinema trope recently with the likes of the Blair Witch Project, Paranormal Activity and Cloverfield. But it started as a device in cinema with the release of Italian film Cannibal Holocaust which features on the UK list of 72 forbidden movies.

    Moral panic

    Moral panic accelerated by the tabloid press fuelled a lot of what happened in the UK film industry right through to the 1990s and beyond. The backlash against video nasties in the 1980s matched the backlash against Child’s Play 3 in 1993 when allegations were made that Jamie Bulger‘s killers were inspired by the film. That moral panic also came out again when one of them reoffended. Nowadays the panic is more focused on the internet.

    The documented life

    While film cameras were available in the pre-war period, much less people had access to their own film development lab. So ‘stag reels’ were able to be shot, but these were either personal films of the very rich, an inside film industry endeavour or involved organised crime.

    The rise of home video in the 1980s changed things dramatically. The family that I mentioned early on who set up the pornographic film studio started with a video camera and recorder combo unit that they originally bought for filming weddings.

    By 1984 the JVC GRC-1 camcorder provided consumers with a TV studio in a easily portable unit using VHS-C cassettes allowing for recording and immediate playback. Consumers started bringing these camcorders everywhere.

    It reduced the cost of film making sparking an explosion in film making for local audiences from Nigeria to the Philippines.

    The camcorder allowed things to be filmed that wasn’t previously possible, including every conceivable form of pornography that you could think of including ‘point of view’ or gonzo content. Accidents could be captured fuelling more series like Faces of Death.

    Internet of everything

    The internet opened up new opportunities for sales and viewership that non-authoritarian governments haven’t really controlled. If you have forbidden movies in one country, it could be available to watch or on DVD or Blu-Ray in another which saw a boom and then massive disruption in the media industry and made a mockery of banned or forbidden movies.

    Smartphones

    If the JVC GRC-1 pioneered the home TV studio, the smartphone mainstreamed the concept and online video platforms provided the broadcast infrastructure. Judicious use of a search engine allows you quickly to find content that exceeds anything shown on the video nasty list of forbidden movies. And it’s real from the war zones of the Middle East to the latest combat footage from Ukraine.

    More related posts on this site here.

  • CNY 2023 the the rear window

    Chinese New Year or CNY 2023 in online shorthand meant that for many people through Asia and beyond we are now in the year of the rabbit. You may see CNY 2023 also called lunar new year or ‘spring festival’. This post is later than I usually do for Chinese New Year, but that delay allowed me to watch more adverts so that you didn’t have to.

    Traits of Chinese New Year

    The rabbit is one of 12 signs in the Chinese zodiac. During the festival a number of things happen:

    • Family members try to gather and visit wider family members. In mainland China, this triggers the world’s largest internal migration of people over a three week period. An article by Bloomberg estimated that mainland Chinese people will have made more than 520 million trips within the country by road, rail, water or air in the first 13 days of the new year
    • People stay up late together, this apparently helps to give longevity to your parents
    • There is a corresponding rise in food purchases, alcohol and other ancillary items. Depending where you are families may make dumplings together or toss bowls of noodles together in order to gain good fortune and prosperity
    • There is a tradition of buying new clothes. In Hong Kong, going to sleep in (new) red underwear is believed to give good luck. Having a red theme to clothes is supposed to help bring good fortune
    • Money. Money in currency and gold is gifted in red envelopes. Companies will pay their employees a lunar new year bonus, usually equivalent to one pay packet (a weeks wages, or a month’s salary was the norm in Hong Kong.) Bosses also give their employees a red envelope from their personal pocket.
    • Zodiac animal themed items are popular with consumers as well
    • There are media events. So in Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia there is usually a ‘Chinese New Year’ song specially composed. Special films that are suitable for all age groups do well in the cinema such as Hong Kong’s ‘All’s Well that ends well’ series of movies

    Consequently, from an advertising perspective this can be equivalent to Super Bowl Sunday in the United States or the Christmas season in the UK when brands drop their tent pole ad creative.

    Ad dynamics

    In general, the best adverts seem to come from Malaysia and Singapore rather than Hong Kong or China and CNY 2023 is no exception. Businesses that lean in particularly heavy to CNY 2023 advertising include telecoms companies, banks and financial services and health companies. Some FMCG brands also get involved, but that seems to be more sporadic in nature. Finally in CNY 2023, some sectors like airlines have more customers than they do available seats so there doesn’t seem to be a campaign by the likes of Cathay Pacific this year.

    China

    Apple

    Apple puts on a film that showcases Chinese opera and tells an individual tale of persistence as part of its shot on an iPhone series of films.

    https://youtu.be/HjHG5kzi85o

    Coca-Cola

    Coca-Cola features a touching story about a family of rabbits celebrating lunar new year. I can’t embed here because Coca-Cola China seems to be using all YouTube’s copyright tools for some reason.

    It apparently says:

    Time will change, traditions will change, and the expectation of reunion will never change. A bowl of handmade dumplings evokes the taste of the New Year in memory. A can of Coca-Cola can fully release the beauty of reunion. The first words of reunion in everyone’s mouth are Coca-Cola® Cheers! Regardless of whether the dishes on the table this year are classic dishes or trendy New Year dishes, as long as they are paired with “Coca-Cola”, the magic of delicious food can be opened, and the whole family can welcome the new and beautiful “rabbit-morrow” together!

    Translation by Hakumi Chan

    Gucci

    China is opening up and Gucci wants to get its share of revenge spending. Hence a lavish short film to celebrate the year of the Rabbit (and a platinum UnionPay card to buy it with).

    Hong Kong

    Asahi Dry

    Japanese lager Asahi Super Dry put together this ad with surprising production values compared to other efforts in the market.

    Malaysia

    Bing Chilling

    Bing Chilling is a local ice cream brand. It has an ear worm of a Chinese New Year song and manages to make the product fit naturally into the film – which is no mean feat.

    https://youtu.be/vB633cGTP70

    Khazanah Nasional

    Khazanah Nasional Berhad (“Khazanah”) is the sovereign wealth fund of Malaysia. The film about a ‘leap of fortune’ is an apropos theme to the brand.

    KitKat

    To celebrate KitKat pink ice cream Nestle’s ice cream marketers commissioned an advert that put together a catchy song and campy outfitted young people to create CNY 2023 perfection.

    Listerine

    Listerine mouthwash captures the tension of a family photo orchestrated by a demanding Auntie.

    Magnum

    Magnum is a mobile gaming app, as a brand think of it as a Malaysian analogue to Foxy Bingo.

    Mercedes Benz

    Pure product porn with a flimsy plot line of a reunion for Chinese New Year.

    Pepsi

    Pepsi focuses on nostalgia with a slice of romance in its advert.

    A second Pepsi film encourages consumers to finish their canned drinks rather than having multiple cans partly used – a common problem during lunar new year gatherings. Creatively, you can see the influence of Hong Kong television programmes on wider asian culture to this day.

    Taylor’s University

    Malaysia’s system which games access to public education to the benefit of the Malay ethnic group has fuelled demand for private universities at home and abroad. Taylor’s University is a private university based in Selangor. This seven minute film comes across as your usual tearjerker, but has a couple of twists in the plot to keep you guessing.

    TuneTalk

    Malaysian pre-paid mobile carrier TuneTalk focused on how broken friendships and relationships are healed as part of the process of coming together through CNY 2023. Alex and Cindy will be reunited!

    Watsons

    Hong Kong headquartered pharmacy retail chain wishes you a Happy Beautiful New Year for CNY 2023.

    You can even more Malaysian ads here.

    Singapore

    SingTel

    Singapore’s incumbent telecoms company brings back the rival, but related Ang and Huang families for their fourth outing in their annual series Chinese New Year advertisements.

    Tiger beer

    Singapore’s Tiger beer did this advert for its home market. It also did experiential activities that tied into the advert too. The agency who did it is called Le PUB – nominative determinism in action.

    Wider diaspora

    HSBC Canada (in partnership with the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco)

    The case study speaks for itself and I can understand why it appeals to well heeled Vancouver residents who call Hong Kong home.

    McDonalds US x Karen X Cheng

    The US arm of McDonalds partnered with Karen X Cheng to create augmented reality based CNY 2023 with a QRcode type glyph on food packaging at participating restaurants.

    More related posts

    CNY 2021

    CNY 2020

    CNY 2019

    CNY 2018

  • Expat dissatisfaction + more things

    Expat dissatisfaction

    China reopening: companies try to lure back expat staff with bigger pay, allowances after pandemic exodus | South China Morning Post – the thing that most of these companies don’t get is that COVID was the catalyst for expat dissatisfaction to be crystallised around.

    Shenzhen Art Museum government-sponsored exhibition

    In fact expat dissatisfaction runs far deeper:

    • China is no longer a good thing on your CV, part of this is down to ‘Brand China’. You are likely to be viewed negatively by peers and even family members at home. From the Chinese perspective, foreigners are now viewed with more suspicion and distaste as the government has fermented fear of foreign spies and nationalistic populism. I am sure that the Chinese government would see it as advantageous if locals had these jobs instead. A position in China might be a rear-guard action now while the future of the corporation that you work for will now be elsewhere in Southeast Asia
    • There are better opportunities elsewhere in South East Asia such as Singapore, Vietnam or even Indonesia. A lack of travel to China opened up the eyes of foreign c-suite members who have spent a good deal of time looking elsewhere. Even businesses like Apple are looking at their supply chain options
    • China is more expensive to live in. Costs had been shooting up in the years running up to COVID-19 and haven’t got any cheaper
    • Accessing timely, good quality healthcare is an issue
    • Effective tax has risen a lot. You will have to pay into local pensions that you will never be able to use. So you are paying more tax and living in a much more expensive country
    • The Chinese visa system is much more hassle filled
    • China’s preference for hostage diplomacy
    • International schools have to follow a Chinese curriculum due to changes in regulations. If you value your child’s education, you will no longer want them to go to school there
    • The businesses that made life more tolerable in China have been disappearing. I won’t list off the range of bars in restaurants, but also access to English language books, formerly through stores like The Book Worm in Beijing. The eco-system of businesses that supported expats living in China is rapidly disappearing even before COVID-19 hit
    • A progressively stricter and harder to crack version of the ‘Great Firewall’

    China

    Chartbook #194 Can Beijing halt China’s housing avalanche? The most important economic-policy question for 2023? – an interesting read given how most financial pundits have gone big on an increase in Chinese consumption. Yet a 2008-style event there could crush global economic growth for the next decade

    You are now living through Cold War 2 – by Noah Smith – what’s interesting about this is the change in tonality. Noah Smith generally takes a techno-optimist tone to content.

    Consumer behaviour

    Nitrous oxide: what to know about potential changes in the… – The Face – the song remains the same. If you substituted NOS for MDMA article, it would have read similar to pieces written in the late 1980s and early 1990s with regards to drugs and rave culture

    FMCG

    For the hundredth time, it’s Suntory time | Japan Subculture Research Center 

    Hong Kong

    Apple Uses Chinese Firm’s Blacklist to Block Sites in Hong Kong | The Intercept 

    Hong Kongers fear a great firewall, TikTokers arrested in Egypt, spyware in Central America – Coda Story 

    London

    BoE takes a newly pessimistic view of the economy | Financial Times – UK central bank thinks UK cannot sustain GDP growth of 1% or more each year without inflation – literally stagnation or bust

    Materials

    China tightens export ban of SmCo/NdFeB and RE know-how; China’s RE and RE magnet exports 2022; VAC sign with General Motors; India starts exports of NdPr; – TL;DR – Chinese government: every worthwhile rare earth know-how prohibited or restricted from export

    Media

    Not a bad recap of the Apple Daily story – Apple Daily – The Rise and Fall of Hong Kong’s Sensationalist, Pro-Democracy Tabloid – The Greater China Journal 

    Online

    Is TikTok ruining the Berlin club scene? – The Face – yet another version of vicarious experiences

    Software

    A guide to using AI for publishers – Baekdal Plus 

    Style

    The preppy revolution: how upper-class style is being torn… – The Face – How is this any different to the way that preppy style was co-opted in the past?

    Web-of-no-web

    Meta lost $13.7 billion on Reality Labs in 2022 after metaverse pivot | CNBC – what is Meta getting for its money?

  • Illicit finance + more stuff

    Illicit finance

    RUSI put together a great presentation on the nature of illicit finance from the perspective of terrorism and terrorist states including Russia and the People’s Republic of China. The foundations of illicit finance seems to be the offshore financial structures that were build up by the United Kingdom in the post-war period to capture the EuroDollar market.

    In some ways this lecture on Illicit finance felt very familiar. It is exactly the same structures that John Le Carre outlined in his post-cold war novel Single and Single. The nature of illicit finance was also covered in Michael Oswald’s documentary The Spider’s Web – Britain’s Second Empire. This linkage was not lost on the audience attending the talk.

    The concerns about illicit finance now are because these structures are being used to attack democracies at their core and buy influence for hostile states such as Russia and China. It is like the west is slowly awakening from a slumber as its enemies try to slit their throat.

    More related content here.

    China

    China’s Top Nuclear-Weapons Lab Used American Computer Chips Decades After Ban – WSJ – sanctions merely raise the cost of acquisition rather than being an outright ban

    Chinese carmakers line up for ‘phenomenal opportunity’ in the UK | Telegraph 

    MERICS EU-China Opinion Pool: Calibrating interdependence with China | Merics and EU warns of ‘unfair’ Chinese subsidies in Green Deal plan – draft | Reuters 

    Fiji suspends top cop, discards police training deal with China | South China Morning Post 

    Riding the slow train in China | The EconomistAs Mr Xi enters his second decade as supreme leader, his sternly paternalist version of Communist Party rule seeks to draw ever more legitimacy from the provision of customer-friendly public services, supplied via modern infrastructure. In the case of China’s railways, at least, that promise of order and efficiency has been kept.

    Consumer behaviour

    Which superstitions are Britons most likely to believe in? | YouGov 

    Economics

    TI points to semiconductor market slowdown | EE Times – Texas Instruments is pointing to the slowdown in the semiconductor market for analog and logic over the next year in its latest results

    Econ Dean at Renmin University: Old ways of stabilizing growth may not work 

    The Great (British) Stagnation – Marginal REVOLUTION

    mainly macro: Should Quantitative Easing be reducing public services? 

    Energy

    Wintershall’s empty bank accounts expose plight of western companies still in Russia | Financial Times“We helped create a very powerful and dangerous Russia without being cognisant of the risk,” he said, while acknowledging that the country had done its best to remedy this in the past 12 months. And he said BASF risked repeating its Russian mistake in China. “What I’m really surprised about, and almost upsets me, is that while this is all happening . . . BASF decides to invest €10bn in China,” he said, referring to a planned chemicals complex that will be the company’s largest ever foreign investment. “That’s the most upsetting part,” he said. “That we don’t learn from it.” – this quote from Thomas Schweppe of 7Square nails the problem neatly

    Finance

    Thousands of offshore companies with UK property still not stating real owners | Tax havens | The Guardianwealthy businessmen, Gulf royalty and states such as China have legally bought up billions of pounds of mostly London property, often via jurisdictions such as the British Virgin Islands (BVI) and the Channel Islands. Stephen Abbott Pugh, head of technology for Open Ownership, a non-governmental organisation focused on beneficial ownership transparency, said the fact that so many of the offshore companies are declared as owned by other companies or trusts means “the public still aren’t able to easily discover the people behind those companies in many cases”. “With access to many European beneficial ownership registers being shut off following a 2022 court ruling, the Register of Overseas Entities shows how useful public data is for tracking how offshore money is used to buy assets,”

    Health

    The 1964 House Report on how smoking affected the health of Americans went around the world. Sales dropped 30 percent in a week, and then picked up back to normal after existing smokers addiction kicked in.

    Hong Kong

    Biden grants Hong Kongers in the U.S. a 2-year deportation reprieve – POLITICO 

    36 pictures that prove Hong Kong’s Canton Disco is a nostalgic time capsule that never ended – Galleries – Mixmag Asia 

    Who is Beijing’s new top gun in Hong Kong? Will Zheng Yanxiong help the city with ‘prosperity’ ambitions or security concerns? | South China Morning Post – lets be honest about it security is going to be easier to address than Hong Kong economics

    Ideas

    Some of the better research and analysis I have seen about Russian sentiment and attitudes.

    This demonstrates a fundamental understanding about influence operations. Its not about persuading you about their truth, but throwin enough mud at your own truth that nobody bothers engaging – Chinese influence operations may lack critical element: influence | CyberScoop 

    Innovation

    NVIDIA Webcam Filter Fakes Your Eye Contact for Video Chats and Presentations – Core77 

    Bosch, APCOA start commercial roll-out of Automated Valet Parking | EE Times – this works because its a specialist use case on automation

    Denso powers up next-gen lidar with AMD Xilinx MPSoCs | Denso – and Toyota seems to be going in a similar direction to Bosch above

    Leoni expands production facility in Mexico | EE Times – the point about changing cable technology driven by electric cars is very interesting

    How Microsoft’s Stumbles Led to Its OpenAI Alliance — The InformationFor more than a decade, Microsoft Research, the company’s in-house research group, has touted artificial intelligence breakthroughs such as translating speech to text and software that could understand human language or recognize objects in images. But the company’s effort to commercialize its AI research moved at more of a crawl – this was at the centre of Microsoft’s innovation narrative for the best part of two decades. It’s embarrassing

    Japan

    Inside Japan’s long experiment in automating eldercare | MIT Technology Review 

    Korea

    China’s ‘sharp increase’ in car exports leaves South Korea searching for a solution | South China Morning Post – Competition is expected to intensify for South Korean car companies as Chinese firms increase exports with governmental support. South Korea can boost competitiveness and develop new markets by signing trade deals and incentivising investment, carmakers say

    Materials

    Solar Panels Disguised As Terracotta Tiles – COOL HUNTING® 

    Media

    Blooming Terror – Building The Last of Us episode 2 – PlayStation.Blog – television adaption more about storytelling and character development than action compared to game

    Online

    Inside the secret Facebook groups where women review men | Dazedthen there’s the whole other side of ‘Are We Dating The Same Guy’, which is a lot more ethically ambiguous. Is it ever OK to publicly share someone’s photos and private conversations without their consent? Or in other words, to ‘doxx’? There’s a clear power differential, but if genders were reversed and guys were exposing females to strangers on the internet, it’s unlikely we’d see the group in such a positive light. “If a boy posted me and people were writing ‘red flag’ in the comments, I would genuinely be quite hurt,” says Tara, 20. She notes how, sometimes, users make particularly unfair remarks: for example, they’ll lambast a date for having “shit chat”, or “[talking] like a 60-year-old dad”.

    Apple beefs up smartphone services in ‘silent war’ against Google | Financial Times – mapping is interesting, Google Maps are ripe for disruption

    We tried to run a social media site and it was awful | Financial Times – the FT experiment running a Mastodon server

    China purges Internet of ‘sexy’ women and ‘overeating’, RT’s Africa plan, and UN debates cyber crime – Coda Story – Chinese ‘campaigns’ are commonplace, there will still be sexy women online within and outside China. Russian media in Africa is a bigger issue led by Russia Today

    Retailing

    Why my bittersweet relationship with Shein had to end | MIT Technology Review 

    Security

    Getting Personal With State Propaganda – China Media ProjectNanchang Aviation University (南昌航空大学), located in China’s southern Jiangxi province, announced that it had launched the “Jiangxi International Communication Research Center” (江西国际传播研究中心) in cooperation with the China Media Group, the state media conglomerate formed in 2018 directly under the CCP’s Central Propaganda Department. According to coverage by China Education Daily, a newspaper directly under the Ministry of Education, the new center is an experiment in combining central CCP media and universities (央媒+高校) to carry out international communication by using the “overseas student resources” (留学生资源) of the university.

    America’s China Policy Is Not Working | Foreign Affairs – author doesn’t realise the game has changed

    Iran Says Face Recognition Will ID Women Breaking Hijab Laws | WIRED 

    Web of no web

    Subject: Focusing on our short- and long-term opportunity – The Official Microsoft Blog – combine these cut to the HoloLens team and shutting down Altspace implies Microsoft’s metaverse ambitions are currently on pause

  • Patagonia vest recession

    The Patagonia vest recession was a phrase that I first heard touted by Scott Galloway to encapsulate the economy in 2022. In most recessions, the first sectors to go under are construction, retailing and manufacturing – blue and pink collar working class people suffer the blunt of lay-offs and site closures due to recession.

    The kind of vest thought of when one talks about a Patagonia vest recession. It is called a Better Sweater vest and was popular with media firms, technology companies and investment banks as employee schwag.

    Chart House Restaurant
    Taken by soq

    What’s a recession?

    recession, in economics, a downward trend in the business cycle characterized by a decline in production and employment, which in turn causes the incomes and spending of households to decline.

    (December 5, 2022) Recession. United Kingdom: Encyclopaedia Britannica

    A recession generally isn’t felt uniformly across the economy. It doesn’t affect all households. In the past, the middle class might be affected but not as severely affected as working class people. My Dad had managed to move off the shop floor and into an office job in the shipyard as a planner. He was made redundant because he worked in heavy industry and he was in a minority compared to the thousands of other blue collar workers let go.

    Not all businesses experience actual declines in income, for instance accountancy firms, business consultancies and change management firms may find a high demand for their services. However, there is a general expectation about the future being less certain during a recession. This causes businesses to delay making large purchases or investments and possibly look to reduce costs to conserve cash.

    In recessions, the output decline can be traced to a reduction in purchases of durable household goods such as computers and washing machines by consumers. This drives a corresponding decline in corporate purchases of machinery and other equipment.

    If the companies aren’t already running ‘just-in-time’ there reduction in additions of goods to stocks or inventories. Where ‘just-in-time’ is in place, the client reduces their forecast demand to their supply chain driving a similar effect. The greatest effect is likely on inventory; businesses stop adding to their existing inventories and become more willing to draw on them to fill production orders. Inventory declines thus have a double impact on production volume as it filters through the supply chain like a Mexican wave.

    So what happened?

    But the Patagonia vest recession was different. A number of things happened:

    • Technology stocks and start-ups had been swept up in a decade of irrational exuberance in terms of business values
    • Funding suddenly declined for startups. This was partly due to interest rates and a realisation that crypto-currencies weren’t worth what many investors had assumed. This led to a raft of redundancies
    • Crypto companies started falling one after the other. Prominent exchange FTX and related investment fund Alameda Research go under with allegations of fraud. Their rival Binance is ensnared in legal issues too
    • Cloud software firms suddenly find that their pay-as-you-go model can result in sharp cash flow declines which affect their profits
    • Big technology companies had staffed up to meet the COVID-19 related demand, found themselves with an employee overhang. This particularly affected e-tailing and cloud services business. They cut back on staff as they release poor financial results. BUT, the amount of people cut as a percentage was still below the proportion of head count Microsoft would have let go back when it practiced stack ranking. The mainstream media focus on the big numbers rather than the small overall proportion of lay-offs. Secondly those getting made redundant are finding it a reasonable market to get work outside the technology sector
    • Activist investors object to what they consider to be more indulgent projects like Meta’s deep investment in the future metaverse, which is a very long term bet
    • Meanwhile, services and manufacturing industry kept ramping up to meet supply-chain related challenges and meet latent demand. But had problems getting staff. You have restaurants that open up limited hours due to their problems hiring. Manufacturing businesses have been hoarding staff, because they know how hard it is for them to recruit
    • Inflation in the US is starting to come under control as supply chains started to balance out

    Of course, all of this doesn’t mean that the Patagonia vest recession won’t bleed on to Main Street, but at the start it looked very different.

    The Patagonia vest boom prior to the Patagonia vest recession

    To the general public, awareness of the Patagonia vest as an emblematic garment of class came from the press photos taken at the Sun Valley conference hosted by private investment firm Allen & Co. which built up a bit of a reputation in terms of ‘speed dating’ for mergers and acquisitions deals. Media titans like the Murdoch family met Silicon Valley CEOs and Jeff Bezos of Amazon. Telecommunications was represented primarily through the cable TV company executives who attended.

    Amazon founder Jeff Bezos decided to buy the Washington Post when he was at Sun Valley. It was also where the Time Warner | AOL merger was cooked up.

    Cameras aren’t allowed inside the conference which operates in a Chatham House-style arrangement. So press photographers could only take pictures when people were arriving or leaving the conference centre. Sun Valley sat at the nexus of a media and technology sector boom over almost two decades. The bulk of the media photos showed people walking cropped at the knees or their grotch, which focused readers attention on the tops that they were wearing. And a uniform emerged to the general public. The uniform was the Patagonia vest to deal with the cool early morning and early evenings of Sun Valley. These vests were given out some years by Allen & Co.; but the Patagonia vest has extended itself far beyond Sun Valley.

    It became such a cultural touchstone that the Sun Valley conference complete with vests was lampooned in a story arch of Succession.

    Why a Patagonia vest recession?

    Why is this a Patagonia vest recession rather than a North Face vest recession or a Columbia Sportswear vest recession?

    From working with dot com clients to when I worked at Yahoo!, Silicon Valley fashion was bifurcated in nature. The reality of Silicon Valley couture is that many people wore a t-shirt jeans and layers like hoodies. Footwear would vary somewhere between sneakers and trekking sandals.

    Men's Monterey Brown Teva Sandals With Socks

    But the ‘MBA class’ of professional managers tended to wear collared shirts, ‘smart’ jeans or chinos. They may have worn a sleeveless pullover or fleece vest. Their venture capital counterparts who where probably their MBA class colleagues wore a similar uniform, with a bit more of lean towards Ralph Lauren country club friendly shirts or polo shirts.

    Corporate branded wear started with bags. I had my share of corporate branded Timbuk 2 bags. Different engineering projects would have celebratory t-shirts for things like hack days. Eventually we started to see branded corporate wear, from the cringeworthy chambray or scratchy polo shirts issued to booth staff at an exhibition to hoodies and fleeces. I knew engineers who bragged about being dressed almost head to toe (sweatshirt material top, t-shirt, boxers and socks) in schwag that they had picked up for free as an anti-fashion statement.

    You can see these dual styles in the TV show Silicon Valley. Coming from a creative agency background, I felt more at home in the hoodie wearing crowd.

    Secondly, there was a cargo cult amongst try-hards in the early to mid-2000s there was a move towards turtle necks with Silicon Valley types looking suspiciously like architects as they tried to ape Steve Jobs. There has been a similar buzz has surrounded Allbirds sports shoes

    The finance sector had its own transformation. Early dot com era west coast-based tech focused investment bank financiers such as Frank Quattrone mirrored the east coast convention of the tailored business suit, usually in grey with a conservative tie and pocket square. This would be paired with a set of brown shoes, usually loafers. You could buy the look at Armani, Barneys or Brooks Brothers depending on your budget.

    Frank Quattrone
    Frank Quattrone by JD Lasica

    The 2008 Great Recession hit the finance centre like a shockwave. There was a need to dress down. A few things drove this:

    • An Armani suit is an obvious target when you have Occupy Wall Street camped outside your place of work
    • Wall Street had to modernise and attract new types of talent and competed against tech firms
    • The need to mirror the look of the hedge funds and technology companies that investment bankers wanted to do business with. They already stood out with their east coast vibe, the outfits communicated that ‘actually we’re just like you’ with varying degrees of success

    The look has morphed into a relaxed yet sophisticated uniform that drew on preppyness, or the Ivy League look and the country club vibe evoked by Silicon Valley VCs. This resulted in a grey or navy fleece vest paired with a button-down, chino pants, and maybe even leather sneakers. It fitted in with weekend wear in more high class neighbourhoods and didn’t scream privilege in the same way that traditional Wall Street did.

    However this became a power validation all of its own, dubbed the “Midtown Uniform” by many for its popularity throughout Midtown Manhattan as the business casual look rolled across the cultural wallpaper of Wall Street.

    Expired?

    Patagonia haven’t enjoyed their vests being the punchline of a joke. They are a mission led company that looks to be sustainable and environmentally friendly. They’ve been described as the conscience of the outdoor industry. Patagonia doesn’t want its products sold on Amazon, not because it’s luxurious and exclusive. But because Patagonia believes that Amazon encourages thoughtless consumption and is bad for the environment. Being seen as the uniform of the privileged didn’t go down well. So in April 2019, Patagonia announced that it wouldn’t provided corporate branded clothing to financial institutions or fintech companies, preferring to focus on mission-led environmental businesses instead. Given its iconic status within these sectors, the news was given the kind of coverage that would usually be reserved for an uncharacteristically large drop in the S&P 500 index.

    The case against fintech businesses is down to their rapidly expanding energy footprint, which I have covered in depth elsewhere.

    While a clear successor to the Patagonia vest hasn’t become apparent yet, there are brands looking to take their crown such as

    • Cotopaxi – who are environmentally friendly, but also corporate friendly
    • North Face – have been doing some interesting work in more environmentally friendly materials and already well known in the corporate branding space
    • SCOTTeVest – famous for being traveller-friendly. It comes with routing for your headphone cables, a plethora of pockets and charging wires. Their CEO called the Patagonia stance PR BS

    Grandfathered in

    Secondly, Patagonia decided that it wouldn’t leave long term customers in the lurch, which probably means that your favourite investment bank or big tech firm is safe from the customer purge.

    According to Corley Kenna, senior director of global communications at Patagonia, customers and the press had inquired as to “whether we’re leaving ‘bros out in the cold.’” Kenna confirmed again that long-term customers would be grandfathered in.

    (April 5, 2019) Are Bankers and Venture Capitalists Really Getting Fleeced by Patagonia? United States: New York Times

    And those left in the economic cold can still enjoy a Patagonia vest recession. I am thankful that it wasn’t called the Carhartt or Chore coat recession signalling a creative class layoff-led recession.

    More information

    Starbucks, Airpods, and the Fleece Vest: The Rise of Wall Street’s Greatest Fixture | California Review

    Patagonia suggests finance bros aren’t a fit for its fleece vests | Quartz

    Patagonia distances itself from tech bros with new branded vest policy | Guardian

    Patagonia Is Refusing To Sell Its Iconic Power Vests To Some Financial Firms | Buzzfeed News

    The finance bro uniform is officially dead as Patagonia stops adding corporate logos to its ubiquitous fleece vests | Business Insider

    How to dress tech bro | Financial Times

    I Wore A Fleece Vest To Work To See If I Felt Like A Tech Bro | Buzzfeed News

    Patagonia will no longer sell vests with finance firm logos on them | CBS News

    Will Patagonia’s New Corporate Gifting Policy Affect the Event Industry? | BizBash

    Moguls, Deals And Patagonia Vests: A Look Inside ‘Summer Camp For Billionaires’ | WBUR

    Shock, horror: Patagonia bans sale of corporate branded vests to fintech and Wall Street firms | City AM