Category: business | 商業 | 상업 | ビジネス

My interest in business or commercial activity first started when a work friend of my Mum visited our family. She brought a book on commerce which is what business studies would have been called decades earlier. I read the book and that piqued my interest.

At the end of your third year in secondary school you are allowed to pick optional classes that you will take exams in. this is supposed to be something that you’re free to chose.

I was interested in business studies (partly because my friend Joe was doing it). But the school decided that they wanted me to do physics and chemistry instead and they did the same for my advanced level exams because I had done well in the normal level ones. School had a lot to answer for, but fortunately I managed to get back on track with college.

Eventually I finally managed to do pass a foundational course at night school whilst working in industry. I used that to then help me go and study for a degree in marketing.

I work in advertising now. And had previously worked in petrochemicals, plastics and optical fibre manfacture. All of which revolve around business. That’s why you find a business section here on my blog.

Business tends to cover a wide range of sectors that catch my eye over time. Business usually covers sectors that I don’t write about that much, but that have an outside impact on wider economics. So real estate would have been on my radar during the 2008 recession.

  • The mobile industry and it’s progress

    Just over 11 years ago I watched a talk on the mobile industry by Charles Dunstone of Carphone Warehouse at the LSE.

    Sir Charles Dunstone at Huawei Ascend P6 launch

    I came across the post by accident the other evening and wondered how well Dunstone’s view held up over the past decade or so.

    On VoIP (voice over Internet Protocol)…

    I think that the difference between Europe (particularly the UK) and the US is that VoIP will be very big in businesses, in residential homes you can’t have broadband without having an exchange line: that’s the way the regulator has decided it wanted to make sure that BT can make a living. If you’ve got broadband, if if you don’t want it, if you pick your phone up you’re going to get a dial tone that you can make a phone call from. Once you’ve got broadband unbundling, once you’ve got a connection from the exchange to the home it doesn’t cost you anything to connect a call whether its over broadband or you pick the normal phone up.

    So suddenly a normal phone has the exact same economics as Skype, so I think what will happen, what you will see people like us do is offer VoIP-priced services on your normal phone at home without you having to put a headset in your PC or mess around and do all that kind of stuff. There are some people who will find reasons to do it and things that they want to do within it. The majority of people with a fixed-line are people with a family, over 30 years old, 50 per cent of it is there home alarm and ring people, 50 per cent of it is that they want to be able to ring the fire brigade if the house catches fire in the middle of the night. You won’t get them to use their mobile or use VoIP as they want to sit by their bed, get a dial tone and dial 999.

    So I think in residential its not going to have a massive impact, in businesses its a different thing, with VoIP you can have multiple lines over one exchange line and that’s going to completely revolutionise business telephony.

    Vonage is already more expensive than we are for your phone service and we’re not even using an unbundled broadband line on it. The economic difference is very different here than it is in the US.

    Dunstone clearly didn’t have an idea about rise of wi-fi and devices using Skype as a client, though he clearly saw the business case of Skype for business. This made sense as by the late 1990s UK call centres were using VoIP complete with integration with customer records. Just under just over a year later 3 launched its dedicated Skype handset and Skype became available on the Symbian mobile operating system for download. There was resistance to OTT VoIP from T-Mobile in particular.

    Now FaceTime, Skype, WeChat voice-and-video and Google Hangouts are ubiquitous. The voice call has been replaced by visual and text messaging on OTT services similar to the instant messaging clients of yore.

    On where mobile phones are going…

    I don’t have a clue where things will be in ten years. A few predictions on mobile phones, it is a unique device because the last 15 years have changed the world, more than it had changed for 500 years before that. 15 years ago, no one left their home without their money and their keys, now no one leaves home without their keys money and mobile phone and its taken a part in peoples lives that no other product has for hundreds and hundreds of years.

    That relationship is so powerful that if a producer wants to gets content to you, they can guarantee it if they can get it to a mobile phone, so that’s why we see cameras, now everyone carries a camera and a mobile phone. Soon everyone will be an iPod and a camera and they’ll keep getting better and better. By next Christmas you’ll be able to buy cameras with flashes, zoom all this kind of stuff. I think that video is going on mobile phones, I think that payment is coming, payment systems is coming onto them and Carphone Warehouse is the largest retailer of digital cameras in the UK by accident. We didn’t mean to sell one of them, they just come in the products that we sell as standard and its just that everyone else’s business is morphing into ours because of the unique relationship the product has.

    My final prediction on phones on the next year to two is that fashion is about to become a big thing in phones, at the moment they are driven by technology. We had an extraordinary experience this Christmas with a pink V3 we brought out. We’ve done some analysis that absolutely blew us a way, you’re starting to see the manufacturers talk to the big brands about putting things into phones and people spend stupid money on pens and watches and shoes and clothes. I think that all that madness is also going to end up in mobile phones as its such a public personal accessory.

    Dunstone smartly limited his predictions to the next few years rather than looking forward a decade and his view of the camera as a key function driving purchase is still proved right. At the moment the intra-Android handset feature battle on premium handsets is fought on camera technology. Huawei and its Leica partnership, LG and Samsung with their respective double cameras and Sony with their powerful sensors.

    The iPhone 7 is also sold in a similar way as Apple’s Shot on an iPhone marketing campaign shows.

    Dunstone also saw the smartphone as a media device and for many years  content has been side loaded on to phones. Sony Ericsson had launched the Walkman-branded W800 the previous year. As SD card capacity increased, it wasn’t too much of a leap to assume that the mobile phone could replace lower end flash memory MP3 devices.

    Nokia would be launching its multimedia focused N-series phones just a month after this talk. I remember seeing Christian Lindholm in the lift at Yahoo! with a Nokia N93. The phone looked like a chimera between a flip phone and camcorder.

    Ten years later and video recording and editing technology is available across both Android and iOS handsets. One of the last projects I was involved in at Yahoo! was co-launching the N73 with Nokia which featured the Flickr photo app on the phone as standard. 11 years later and my iPhone still has flickr on it.

    Dunstone believed that the phone would become a fashion item. At the time LG had partnered with Prada.  Vertu had been established seven years previously by Nokia. Today premium handsets have established themselves as as fashion items. TAG Heuer has experimented with its own smartphone, Porsche Design worked with BlackBerry.

    On the flip side smartphones have become commoditised; Android manufacturers have seen their margins hollowed out. Huawei made a big push into the premium space with its P series phones yet sees declining handset prices as the medium tier handset segment eats into premium sector sales.

    Dunstone’s predictions about mobile payments were too optimistic. There were various technology options explored by mobile carriers. Handset mobile payments did take-off in Japan. SMS based payments took off in East Africa. Smartphone hosted wallets have developed slowly however. Card payments are still pre-eminent in the western world at the moment.

    On the competiton…

    I’ve basically got two types of competition: people like Phones4U and The Link who are trying to do what we do and we just get up early and try and do it better and try and beat them up every day. And we have a team, we meet at 8 am every single morning and look at everybody else’s prices and reprice based on what happened that day its that brutal. We fight, fight, fight.

    My other competition is the network stores which is a combination of wanting to have some direct impact with customers and a certain amount of vanity about wanting their brand on the hight street. They don’t compete with us in terms of the volumes of sales that they do, as the market gets more fragmented I think that its less likely that the customer is going to say I just want to go and see the world according to Orange today, rather than even going to one of my normal competitors. In reality it will be let me go and compare Orange with everybody. I think that its going to change but there’s not a very strong economic rationale for them in the first place.

    Dunstone didn’t seem to realise how precarious the independent mobile phone shop was as a business. Network shops are now showrooms and service centres for when things go wrong as consumers go to the web. Carphone Warehouse adapted by becoming a triple play carrier in its own right as well as selling other networks mobile plans. Dunstone’s peer John Caudwell had the good sense / luck to sell Phones4U on to private equity providers just six months after this interview.

    The mobile carriers didn’t have it a lot easier; O2 was spun out of BT in 2002 and bought by Telefonica of Spain just prior to this interview. T-Mobile and Orange merged their UK operations to form EE. EE was then acquired by BT, some 12 years after BT had spun out O2. 3UK has made an unsuccessful bid for O2, the UK competition authority shut the bid down.

    On the transition of phones to computers…

    Absolutely they’re changing into computers, they start to have bugs, they start to have all kinds of usability issues. Our job is very simple and I think the worst thing that could have happened for me is that there could have been one mobile phone network and one really simple phone and the people understand it so that they did not need anyone to help them set it up and work out which one to buy. So we absolutely love complex markets as this gives us something to offer and something to do we have to keep changing. I just watch in delight as Microsoft come into the marketplace because that’s not going to work is it? Its going to have lots of bugs and crash and do all these sorts of things that needs tons of support. Lots of competing systems Symbian and others, so its another level of complexity alongside all the complexity of the operators, all the complexity of the tarrifs – Bring it on.

    Dunstone realised that smartphones would bring complexity to the mobile phone industry. He seemed to think it would be closer to the PC industry in terms of complexity. He saw what I suspect was a different opportunity in that – particularly building client relationships. In retrospect, he underestimated this disruption.

    More information
    Dunstone on…. | renaissance chambara
    Nokia debuts N series trio | The Register

  • Friends from Yahoo!

    The highlight of this week was briefly catching up with a couple of friends from Yahoo!. The people that I met along the way at Yahoo! were great and I am proud to say that I have more than a couple of friends from Yahoo! The company got culture right, but board level business wrong.

    I didn’t get to watch The Oscars, but even I was aware that it was FUBAR’d. The Mobile World Congress saw the launch of new handsets by Sony, LG and Huawei – but were drowned about by Nokia reinventing their iconic 3310 feature phone. This showed that smartphone manufacturers had crafted their products to a high degree and no longer came up with products that amazed us. They are all now much-of-a-muchness.

    Rolex broke out an advertising campaign across TV and online to coincide with The Oscars. It shows the heritage that Rolex had in Hollywood. It surprised me that Rolex felt the need to do this

    More luxury related content here.

    The Worst Mission Statement Of All Time – Medium – epic

    Siberian tigers take out a drone that had been harassing them

    A Bathing Ape (BAPE) have done a tie-in with the new King Kong film. Given the Vietnam era setting I think that they could have done so much more such as ‘combat Zippo’ lighters, embroidered jackets and fatigues – instead there’s a t-shirt. You can tell that Nigo is no longer behind the wheel over there.

    A BATHING APE®︎ X KONG:SKULL ISLAND #bape #kongskullisland #KongIsKing #キングコング映画

    A post shared by A BATHING APE® OFFICIAL (@bape_japan) on

    A really nice film on data featuring Faris Yakob

  • Toshio Nakanishi + more news

    Toshio Nakanishi aka Tycoon To$h

    Toshio Nakanishi of Major Force and Skylab has died aged 61 – FACT Magazine – so long Tycoon To$h. I knew of Toshio Nakanishi through his work alongside Hiroshi Fujiwara on the Major Force label producing amazing hip hop tracks. I didn’t know until much later that Toshio Nakanishi had been a member of The Plastics – think a Japanese take on the B-52s or Devo. Toshio Nakanishi met his wife through The Plastics and they went on to form Melon together. From Melon, Toshio Nakanishi branched into hip hop and trip hop under different guises.

    Business

    The case for creativity | Cannes Lions – which should have a sub heading ‘Pockets of financial performance that 3G Capital (Kraft Foods / Heinz) will miss out on’

    Warren Buffett’s letter to Berkshire Hathaway investors explains how to use fear to your advantage — Quartz – First, widespread fear is your friend as an investor, because it serves up bargain purchases. Second, personal fear is your enemy. It will also be unwarranted.

    ‘Uber Is Doomed’, Argues Transportation Reporter – Slashdot

    Economics

    Saudi Arabia’s Oil Wealth Is About to Get a Reality Check – Bloomberg  – only about 20% of what Saudi Arabia has bargained on which will make their sovereign fund plan difficult to achieve

    Scraping by on six figures? Tech workers feel poor in Silicon Valley’s wealth bubble | Technology | The Guardian – great indicators of a bubble

    Economic Research | Age Discrimination and Hiring of Older Workers – interesting research by the Federal Reserve Bank of San Francisco

    Innovation

    Who Needs GPS? The Forgotten Story of Etak’s Amazing 1985 Car Navigation System | Fast Company | Business + Innovation – this is an epic piece of engineering. They had to make their own maps and relied on in car sensors to do dead reckoning calculations from.

    Marketing

    Australia found the Achilles’ heel of tobacco companies, and a record number of smokers quit – inverse proof of how valuable brand and design are

    Media

    How to Self-Publish a Novel in 2017 | Zhubert – I’d imagine that this is also true for non-fiction

    Which Grand Tour presenter should you be mates with? | The Grand Tour | The Guardian – since when did the Guardian start doing Buzzfeed listicles? Since Amazon got native advertising done for The Grand Tour

    Web of no web

    MWC 2017: Telcos cannot afford another ‘OTT’ in the IoT age – NEC | total telecom – changes business model of IoT businesses

    Sony Xperia Touch projector makes any surface a multitouch computer (nifty, expensive niche product) – Liliputing – its lovely tech and a really nice design, but the price is hard to justify

  • Have we reached peak streetwear?

    At the end of January I wrote a blog post about the landmark luxe streetwear collection by Louis Vuitton and Supreme.

    I delved into the history of streetwear and the deep connection it shared with luxury brands. This linkage came from counterfeit products, brand and design language appropriation.

    This all came from a place of individuality and self expression of the wearer.

    obey

    I reposted it from my blog on to LinkedIn. I got a comment from a friend of mine which percolated some of the ideas I’d been thinking about. The comment crystalised some of my fears as a long-time streetwear aficionado.

    This is from Andy Jephson who works as a director for consumer brand agency Exposure:

    The roots of street and lux that you point to seem to be all about individuality and self expression and for me this is what many modern collabs are missing. To me they seem to be about ostentatious showmanship. I love a collaboration that sees partners sharing their expertise and craft to create something original. The current obsession with creating hype however is creating a badging culture that produces products that could have been made in one of the knock-off factories that you mention. Some collabs that just produce new colourways and hybrid styles can be amazing, reflecting the interests of their audience. But far too many seem gratuitous and are completely unobtainable for the brand fans on one side of the collaborative partnership.

    The streetwear business is mad money

    From Stüssy in 1980, streetwear has grown into a multi-billion dollar global industry. Streetwear sales are worth more than 75 billion dollars per year.

    By comparison the UK government spent about 44.1 billion on defence in 2016. Streetwear sales are more than three times the estimated market value of Snap Inc. Snap Inc., is the owner of Snapchat.

    Rise of Streetwear

    It is still about one third the size of the luxury industry. Streetwear accounts for the majority of menswear stocked in luxury department stores. Harvey Nichols claimed that 63% of the their contemporary menswear was streetwear. Many luxury brands off-the-peg men’s items blur the boundary between luxe and streetwear.

    The industry has spawned some technology start-ups acting as niche secondary markets including:

    • Kixify
    • K’LEKT
    • THRONE
    • StockX
    • SneakerDon
    • GOAT

    Large parts of the streetwear industry has become lazy and mercenary. You can see this in:

    • The attention to detail and quality of product isn’t what it used to be. I have vintage Stüssy pieces that are very well-made. I can’t say the same of many newer streetwear brands
    • Colour-ways just for the sake of it. I think Nike’s Jordan brand is a key offender. Because it has continually expands numbers of derivative designs and combinations. New Balance* have lost much of their mojo. Especially when you look at the product their Super Team 33 in Maine came up with over the years. The fish, fanzine or the element packs were both strong creative offerings. By comparison recent collections felt weak
    • The trivial nature of some of the collaborations. This week Supreme sold branded Metro Cards for the New York subway
    • Streetwear brands that sold out to fast moving consumer products. This diluted their own brand values. While working in Hong Kong, I did a Neighborhood Coke Zero collaboration. The idea which had some tie-in to local cycling culture and nightscape. Aape – the second-brand of BAPE did a deal wrapping Pepsi cans in the iconic camouflage

    Hong Kong brand Chocoolate did three questionable collaborations over the past 18 months:

    • Vitaminwater
    • Nissin (instant noodles)
    • Dreyer’s (ice cream)

    By comparison, Stüssy has a reputation in the industry for careful business management. The idea was to never become too big, too fast. The Sinatra family kept up quality and selective distribution seeing off Mossimo, FUBU and Triple Five Soul. Yes, they’ve done collaborations, but they were canny compared to newer brands:

    “The business has grown in a crazy way the past couple of years,” says Sinatra. “We reluctantly did over $50 million last year.”

    Reluctant because, according to Sinatra, the company is currently trying to cut back and stay small. “It was probably one of our biggest years ever — and it was an accident.”

    Sinatra characterises Stüssy’s third act as having a “brand-first, revenue second” philosophy, in order to avoid becoming “this big monstrosity that doesn’t stand for anything.”

    The Evolution of Streetwear. The newfound reality of Streetwear and its luxury-like management academic study uncovered careful brand custodianship.

    It’s not clothing; it’s an asset class

    Part of the bubble feel within the streetwear industry is due to customer behaviour. For many people, street wear is no longer a wardrobe staple. Instead it becomes an alternative investment instrument. Supreme items and tier zero Nike releases are resold for profit like a day trader on the stock market.

    Many of the start-ups supported by the community play to this ‘day trader’ archetype. It is only a matter of time for the likes of Bonham’s and Sotherby’s get in on the act.

    A key problem with the market is that trainers aren’t like a Swiss watch or a classic car. They become unusable in less than a decade as the soles degrade and adhesive breaks down.

    There is the apocryphal story of a Wall Street stock broker getting out before the great stock market crash. The indicator to pull his money out was a taxi driver or a shoe shine boy giving stock tips.

    Streetwear is at a similar stage with school-age teenagers dealing must-have items as a business. What would a reset look like in the streetwear industry? What would be the knock-on effect for the luxury sector?

    More information
    USA Streetwear Market Research Report 2015 | WeConnectFashion
    Louis Vuitton, Supreme and the tangled relationship between streetwear and luxury brands | renaissance chambara
    New Balance Super Team 33 – Elements Collection | High Snobriety
    New Balance ST33 – The Fanzine Collection | High Snobriety
    1400 Super Team 33 (ST33) trio | New Balance blog – the infamous fish pack
    How Stüssy Became a $50 Million Global Streetwear Brand Without Selling Out | BoF (Business of Fashion)
    The Evolution of Streetwear. The newfound reality of Streetwear and its luxury-like management by de Macedo & Machado, Universidade Católica Portuguesa (2015) – PDF

    * in the interest of full disclosure, New Balance is a former client.

  • My Friend Cayla + more news

    My Friend Cayla

    My Friend Cayla doll banned in Germany over surveillance concerns – ABC News (Australian Broadcasting Corporation) – So are most other connected systems such as Google Now, Siri and Alexa powered devices. My Friend Cayla has little to no security allowing it to be relatively easily hacked.

    Business

    Uber’s work environment sounds even worse than we thought – Business Insider – who said beer bong bro?

    Snap’s IPO Draws Barclays CEO, But London Investors Remain Wary – Bloomberg – slowing user growth an issue

    Economics

    How Trump’s Bullying of Mexico Could Backfire | The New Republic – could Mexico follow the Asian model of economic development?

    Wanda’s Dick Clark deal shaky, but not yet dead: sources | Reuters – restrictions on currency movement

    What Does Trump Want? China Scours Twitter, Cocktail Parties for Clues – Bloomberg – they may decide just to wait Trump out

    Ethics

    Let’s not kid ourselves: sexual harassment is rampant in Silicon Valley | The Outline – bro culture and brewskis by nerds

    Closer look: Assassination Report Has China Talking About Ageism – Caixin Global – interesting commentary on Huawei

    FMCG

    The $143bn flop: How Warren Buffett and 3G lost Unilever | FTBack in London on Saturday, as [Unilever CEO] Mr Polman tapped into his network of contacts, he was informed that Finsbury was working with Kraft Heinz on PR. Within seconds, Mr Polman blasted off an email to Sir Martin Sorrell, the founder and chief executive of WPP, the advertising company that counts Unilever as one of its most important clients. Finsbury, which is majority owned by WPP, was removed from the Kraft Heinz side by the end of the day. – guessing Kraft Heinz isn’t worth that much for WPP, also think that you can take Colgate Palmolive off the table as well since they are a big WPP customer

    Japan

    Japan’s wild, creative Harajuku street style is dead. Long live Uniqlo | Quartz – think Camden market before the energy got sucked out of it

    Korea

    Ask a Korean!: Presidential Election and Spy Agency – Interesting article on fake news in Korea

    Luxury

    Hurun: China’s Super-Rich Name Apple, Bulgari As Top Brands for Gifting | Jing Daily – interesting rise of Alipay rather than UnionPay

    Marketing

    Ask uncomfortable questions: UBS and boundary-pushing content marketing | Campaign – odd partnership with Vice Media

    Developers | Uber – interesting stuff on augmenting a passengers journey as marketing opportunity via the API

    Media

    Facebook Messenger Now Lets Brands Send Unprompted Messages Within 24 Hours Of Conversation | IPG Media Labs

    Don’t Look Now, but the Great Unbundling Has Spun Into Reverse – NYTimes.com – bundling started to be used by online business for the same reasons as offline

    Security

    Apple Severed Ties with Server Supplier After Security Concern — The Information – I imagine that this is what being a target of the NSA’s tailored access programme would look like. There are a number of other state actors with similar capabilities. SuperMicro is interesting because it assembles servers outside China – instead it has factories in San Jose, The Netherlands and Taiwan

    Nuts and Bolts of Encryption: A Primer for Policymakers by Edward W Felten (Princeton University) – great 101 guide (PDF)

    Technology

    NVIDIA’s GTX 1080: The Tip Of The Iceberg? – OneRiver Media Blog – Apple need to sort their Pro range out

    Web of no web

    Smart Waggle Boosts IoT | EE Times – interesting move towards a thicker client on IoT for cloud

    Wireless

    Oppo knocks: Beating Apple, Xiaomi and the gang in China | The Economist – BBK the parent of Oppo and Vivo was a successful feature phone maker with good channels and manufacturing smarts – Huawei should be afraid